A Guide to the Fashion Subcultures of Japan

There are always arguments on what city ranks as the undisputed fashion capital of the world. London, Milan, New York, and Paris are always in the conversation. But in terms of pulling off more advanced style, Tokyo straight up kills it. No where is fashion more progressive. That's why designers look to this city when they need inspiration for new collections. The style subcultures found in districts like Harajuku, Ginza, and Shibuya, just to name a few, are unmatched in Europe or the US.

There are a variety of styles underneath the Japanese fashion umbrella. Since many of these style tribes can easily crossover and change season to season, classifying them is not easy. Each group is separated into certain kei (style) sub-genres, and there are tons of magazines that target each demographic. As for authenticity when adopting other culture's styles, the Japanese execute everything perfectly down to the smallest detail.

Kireime kei

This is a conservative dress style that's kept very minimal. The goal is not to have statement pieces or peacock to stand out, but to keep everything neat and traditional. Preppy and Ivy League looks are dominant. You won’t find any style riskshere. Magazines like Men's Joker cater to this group.

Salon Boy

Started by men in beauty school, this style is definitely a more feminine look. Salon boys mix high and low fashion from designer brands to used clothes, and coordinate their looks by paying close attention to accessories. Hats, scarves, belts, and sunglasses, they all sweat the small details. And of course they’re hairstyles have to be on point. A popular magazine where you can find this style is the publication Choki Choki. 

Japanese Chicanos

Don’t be surprised when you go to Japan and find a person who is not of Mexican descent waving the white, green, and red flag proudly. In addition Americana, the Japanese have also adopted the Chicano culture. This style set fully absorbs the cholo lifestyle by adopting the full khaki with the a cuff and crease look. But that’s not all, flannel shirts, Nike Cortez shoes, Loc shades, and braids are also part of the style. You can probably see them around Japan riding around their low-riders, and blasting a mix of their favorite Japanese cholo and chola artists. Talk about going native. 

Street kei

These are the Hypebeasts of Japan. Street kei style plays on the latest trends and is influenced by skate steez and American casual styles. Similar to urahara kei but without as much thrifted clothes. Essential reading material includes Street Jack, Ollie, and Cool Trans mags, just to name a few. But you don’t have to go to Japan to check out this style. Sometimes you can even see them during Supreme drops racking up all the clothes before you get your piece.